Lauretta Stace

Sep 215 min read

Island Time

After enjoying the delights of tropical north Queensland and some wonderful land-based explorations it was time to head to the coast and seek out some aquatic adventures. Our jumping off point was the bustling city of Cairns which has some fine restaurants, a great esplanade and marina and lots of tourists enjoying the sunshine in the late winter months.

We visited some sites on the Great Barrier Reef that were fairly close to Cairns - Michaelmas Cay, Hastings Reef, Frankland Islands and Fitzroy Island.

Michaelmas Cay

Our small catamaran headed out into the blue and arrived at the stunning Michaelmas Cay where we anchored for a couple of hours. The Cay is 22 nautical miles (40km) from Cairns and is the largest uninhabited coral cay in the Cairns region. We spent some time on the sand-spit watching the magnificent pelagic birds, then snorkelled back to the boat.

Michaelmas Cay is a large and stable coral sand island with a grassy area over 200 metres long, it is permanently above water and able to withstand cyclones and very strong winds with rough seas. Little wonder why it is such a popular nesting and breeding location while also one of the most important breeding locations on the Great Barrier Reef and is home to 35 different species of sea birds.

We saw a large variety of birds on the cay including frigate birds, gulls, noddies, terns and brown boobies. The boobies were fun to watch as there were several fluffy chicks on the sand and the adults spent their time stealing twigs and sticks from un-guarded nests to pile on their own little patch of sand.

Hastings Reef

After boarding the catamaran and enjoying lunch, we headed for the outer reef to Hastings Reef. Whilst the sea was a bit rough, it was a glorious day for a snorkel and the water was a delightful tropical temperature. Hastings Reef is located 30 nautical miles out from Cairns. At the end of the last ice age, around 11,000 – 12,000 years ago, this is where the Australian coast line actually resided and the reef began to grow.

Hastings is a typical outer reef. A line of breakers mark where the deep ocean swells break onto the reef wall. The reef itself is shallow on top, with steep sides reminiscent of cliffs falling away into the surrounding water. Once in the water it was a kaleidoscope of colour and life, with a combination of deep blue expanses of ocean water, shallow coral outcrops, coral caves, overhangs, coral canyons and deep water drop offs, all teeming with life. We saw schools of small colourful fish, giant clams, parrot fish, butterfly fish and lots more. It was a wonderful experience and even after 2 hours of snorkelling, I was reluctant to get back on the boat!

Frankland Islands

The next day we boarded another vessel to visit the Frankland Islands. The Great Barrier Reef’s Frankland Group National Park is an archipelago located 10km offshore, about 45km south-east of Cairns. The group’s five continental islands (Normanby, High, Russell, Round and Mabel) are part of the World Heritage-listed Great Barrier Reef Marine Park.

All the islands are uninhabited and surrounded by healthy fringing reefs, full of hard and soft corals, giant clams, schools of fish, turtles, rays and more. Dugongs and whales are often sighted here, and during the months of May and June, manta rays visit the shallow fringing reefs around the islands.

High, Normanby, Mabel, and Round Islands were declared a National Park in 1936, to protection the natural environment. The surrounding waters were included in the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park in 1983, ensuring the conservation of the marine ecosystem. Today the islands are highly regarded as a leading example of marine management.

The islands were named by Lieutenant James Cook in 1770, in honour of two 18th-century sailors, Lord of the Admiralty and his nephew, both named Sir Thomas Frankland.

Our day started with a calm water river cruise down the Mulgrave River, followed by a short open water crossing to Normanby Island. Unfortunately, the weather was very ordinary on this day with constant rain, drizzle and high winds. However, it didn't stop us from having fun, snorkelling in the shallows and walking through the rainforest on this lovely little island paradise.

Fitzroy Island

Our final few days were spent indulging in a bit of R&R on Fitzroy Island, where each day began with a walk on the beach, followed by a delicious breakfast, then a swim or snorkel, lunch, some time lounging around the pool, cocktails at the bar watching the sunset, a scrumptious dinner and then sleep to get ready to do it all again the next day.

We had perfect weather for this part of the holiday and the water was clear and calm. The island is very photogenic and naturally beautiful. It's located only 29km off the coast of Cairns which makes it accessible to day-trippers and resort guests. The island is fringed by coral gardens that you can easily swim to straight off the white, coral shell beaches. It's also a National Park with diverse landscapes featuring granite outcrops, open woodlands, rainforest, mangroves and coral beaches. A scenic walk takes you from the resort through the woodlands and granite rocks to Nudey Beach which has been rated as #1 beach in Australia. Thankfully, it was Nudey by name only, so we got to keep our clothes on.

Education and conservation are also at the heart of this island resort, and you can spend time learning about turtle conservation at the Turtle Rehabilitation Centre, which rehabilitates sick and injured turtles, before releasing them back into the ocean.

The snorkelling was great and fish life was abundant including lots of green turtles and a brief glimpse of a reef shark. Each day we were also privileged to watch humpback whales slowly drifting along in the near distance, with calves in tow.

The Resort

The resort was simple and comfortable with a casual, relaxed atmosphere. It had all the amenities that we needed for a lovely break in the sun.

Nudey Beach

A sensational walk through the woodland brought us to this beautiful, isolated beach, which we enjoyed on our own. An early morning swim was deliciouly refreshing.

Whales and other aquatic creatures

The island was a great place to watch humpback whales cruising around with their babies. When you dived into the water, you could sometimes hear their whale-song which was awesome.

The guest living in the foyer

A delightul pair of sunbirds had located their hanging nest in the hotel foyer hanging from an indoor potted tree. Each night, they would block up the entrance to the nest with feathers.