Our visit to Far North Queensland was full of wonder and adventure, so we have lots of stories to share. This trip will be broken up into a series of blogs to cover all key aspects of our experience.
The Daintree Rainforest
Our adventure begins with a stay north of the Daintree River at Cow Bay, just a short drive from Cape Tribulation. This is the place where the oldest rainforest in the world dramatically collides with the Great Barrier Reef. Once you cross the deep and dark Daintree River, you enter a world largely untouched by urban development and gaudy tourism. It’s a great escape from the hustle and bustle of urban life.
Straight out of the winter clothes and into shorts, sandals and T-shirts for the remainder of the holiday!
Our private cottage was situated on 4 acres of pristine rainforest with a permanent creek, so it was a great place to wake up to the sounds of birds greeting the morning sun. A covered outdoor bathroom and shower added to the ambience of the place, making us feel instantly relaxed and free from all the cares of the world.
The unique Southern Cassowary
On Day 1 we were surprised and excited to see a male southern cassowary in the forest with some chicks in tow, just near Cow Bay beach. The cassowary has a restricted range in North Queensland but is apparently doing quite well in the Cape Tribulation area, which is nice to hear.
Our days were taken up ambling along forest walks through pristine tropical rainforest, keeping an eye out for different birds and animals and marvelling at the lush forest growth, palm trees, mangroves, rainforest creeks and exotic plant life. Combined with beach walks and long lunches overlooking beaches fringed with coconut palms, it was an idyllic start to our tropical holiday in this spectacular part of Australia.
Walking in the forest
National Parks have created some lovely boardwalks through the rainforest and mangroves at different points which makes it very accessible for visitors to experience the tranquility and beauty of the forest. Once inside the forest you are immersed in a world of emerald green with towering trees, vines and palms all reaching for the sun whilst forest creeks trickle beneath your feet. The plants, flowers and insects offer a rich source of food for many species of birds which are often hard to spot, but can easily be heard. We did the Dubuji and Madja Boardwalks which are located near Cape Tribulation. The Dubuji walk opens up onto a magnificent beach where the rainforest and mangroves suddenly stop when they hit the coral coast.
Take a walk with us through the rainforest:
Birds of the Rainforest
Apart from our fortunate sighting of the Southern Cassowary, we were able to capture images of a range of beautiful forest birds that included the Wompoo Fruit Dove, Black Butcher Bird, Spectacled Monarch, Honeyeaters, Rufous Shrike Thrush, Spangled Drongo, Orange Footed Scrub Fowl, Egrets and Striated Heron. They all add colour, beauty, song and life to the landscape.
Where the forest meets the Coral Sea
Cape Tribulation is the only place in the world where two World Heritage Listed sites collide - the Daintree Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef. What a privilege it was to amble through this amazingly diverse landscape and walk on the beaches lined by rainforest and mangroves.
Walk along Cow Bay beach:
Another great trip was to Emmagen Creek which took us past Cape Tribulation and part way towards the famous Bloomfield Track which links Cape Tribulation and Cooktown. This part of the coast was severely damaged by Cyclone Jasper (Category 2 system) in December 2023. A lots of trees are down and there are rock/mud slides along the coast, so it will take time for the forest to repair itself. The roads are also undergoing major repairs which will take several years to fix.
We also visited the Daintree Discovery Centre which provides a tree-top canopy walk through the rainforest and loads of information on the plants, insects, reptiles, animals and birds that thrive in the region.
Cooper Creek
A cruise along Cooper Creek, near Thornton Beach, was the best way to see this magnificent jungle waterway and its reptilian inhabitants. Ernie, the cruise operator, is a dinky-di Aussie character who has been running these crocodile cruises on the creek for over 20 years. He managed to find us 7 crocodiles - all females - and ranging in size from small to 4 metres in length. The resident male crocodile had been shot dead by QLD National Parks after a fatal attack on a woman who was swimming at Thornton Beach at night-time some years ago. To date, no new male has entered this territory. Coincidentally, another man was taken by a crocodile whilst fishing in the Daintree River whilst we were on our trip. It's a warning to all that these creatures are both smart and dangerous and should be respected, especially when you understand that a large male crocodile can weigh up to 1,000kg. There is no contest between man and beast! We saw some nice birds as well, but they are smart enough to keep away from the waters edge!
Hop on board the Cooper Creek cruise with Ernie and friends:
Mossman Gorge
On our way south, we stopped at Mossman Gorge to do a fabulous self-guided rainforest circuit walk. This took us through the magnificent Mossman River boulders and a cool and calm forest trail that provided access to all the delights of the rainforest. The walk and associated facilities are managed by the Mossman Gorge Cultural Centre which is a great destination to introduce visitors to both the stunning natural beauty of the Daintree and the rich culture of the Kuku Yalanji people.
This is an indigenous ecotourism development which provides employment for local indigenous people but also an opportunity to learn about the rich indigenous culture of the region and have authentic engagement with indigenous people.
Ambling through the southern Daintree Rainforest at Mossman Gorge:
Next stop - birding around Cairns and Atherton Tablelands.
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