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Writer's pictureLauretta Stace

Western Wilds

Updated: Nov 18, 2022

The gateway to the magnificent, World Heritage listed south-west wilderness region of Tasmania is the picturesque village of Strahan. Our stay centred on taking advantage of the top tourist attractions on offer with a cruise on Macquarie Harbour and the Gordon River as well as a journey on the West Coast Wilderness Railway.


World Heritage Cruises

Along with the visual splendour on offer, this cruise was fabulous with comfortable seats, plenty of space and sumptuous refreshments that included delicious Tasmanian produce. The trip covered Macquarie Harbour, Hells Gates, Sarah Island and the Gordon River.


Macquarie Harbour

The day before our cruise, we were lucky to capture images of this magnificent body of water in fair and sunny weather. Which was just as well, because the next day was completely the opposite - but that's part of Tasmania's charm...

Interestingly, Macquarie Harbour is an expanse of water that is six times larger than Sydney Harbour and is Australia's second-largest natural harbour. This region has a fascinating history on several fronts and is surrounded by a range of beautiful natural assets.


The penal settlement history figures largely in the story of this region and when you experience Macquarie Harbour in wild weather, you quickly realise why escape was not an option for the convicts. Here we are passing through Hells Gates on the way to Sarah Island, where the unfortunate convicts were imprisoned. Hang on to your hats!




Sarah Island

Sarah Island was established as a penal settlement in 1821. You feel an immense sense of sadness as you walk around the island and imagine what life would have been like for the convicts. It's a windswept and barren place, with no permanent fresh water, so conditions were very harsh indeed. The convict labour was primarily used to fell trees in the surrounding rainforest for boat building. Punishments were extremely cruel and harsh with lashes from the cat o'nine tails dipped in salt water and weeks of solitary confinement for the smallest of indiscretions.


Take a walk onto the island...




Gordon River

It's a welcome relief when you leave the horrors of Sarah Island and voyage down the magnificent Gordon River on the outskirts of the World Heritage Listed Tasmanian Wilderness. Even in poor weather, you still get a sense of awe and wonder as you pass through towering mountains covered in ancient rainforest. The Gordon River has its own rich history of thousands of years of Aboriginal custodianship and the more recent pressures of the 19th century mining and timber industries and the 20th century threat from expansion of the hydro-electric schemes that threatened to dam and destroy much of this pristine area. The proposed dam on the Franklin-Gordon Rivers created one of the most memorable protest movements in Australia's history in the 1970's-1980's. We are indebted to the many brave protestors and decision-makers who protected this beautiful place with its amazing array of natural and cultural heritage.




Wilderness Railway

The West Coast Wilderness Railway is a great way to venture into the history of European settlement of the region and to learn about the amazing feats of human endurance and resilience that were employed in the mad rush for mineral wealth and by those who simply wanted to make a new life in the forest.

The train itself is very interesting and each carriage is beautifully made from hand-crafted local timbers.


Mountain Wilderness

As we headed east once again, we were fortunate to come across this lovely short walk to Donaghy's Lookout, off the Lyell Highway near Queenstown. The walk passes through dense temperate rainforest before opening up on to a heathland ridge. From the lookout platform at the peak of the ridge impressive views overlook the junction of the Collingwood and Franklin Rivers as well as amazing sweeping views of the surrounding mountain ranges and button grass plains. It was a fitting end to our short visit to this spectacular place and a reminder of its vast wildness. Long may it last!

Take a look around...







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